Monday, December 27, 2010
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Taurus MAF check
With the key ON , and the engine OFF , verify that there is at least 10.5 volts ( I got 11.65)between the VPWR (red) and GND (black/white) terminals of the MAF sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary.
With the key ON , and the engine ON , verify that there is at least 4.5 volts between the SIG (light blue/red) and GND terminals of the MAF sensor connector.(I got 0.68) If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary.
With the key ON , and the engine ON , check voltage between GND and SIG RTN (tan/light blue) terminals. Voltage should be approximately 0.34-1.96 volts. (I got .009)If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty. This was with the maf unplugged and engine running. Engine runs slightly better with MAF plugged back in. What yall thank ? I appreciate yalls help very much.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
HEATER 101
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Maytag French door service manual
Maytag french door service manual
Note this is the companion service manual to a post I did earlier about programming a maytag control board
Note this is the companion service manual to a post I did earlier about programming a maytag control board
Monday, November 22, 2010
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Maytag programming notes
You gotta program that board after the install. Here is the instructions:
Programming Mode:
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit
after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad .
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature Down Keypad .
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature Down
Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value
should be validated with the
Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is
exited by pressing Door Alarm
Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature Up Keypad or Refrigerator
Down Keypad to
change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer
Temperature Up Keypad to
select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the
Freezer Temperature Down Keypad
until the Program CODE begins flashing indicating it has been saved.
NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control
will not save the new code, but will
beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program CODE of 0000).Once the
Program CODE has been
saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the
new code is incorrect this
process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door
Alarm key for 3 seconds or
will exit if unattended for four minutes. Got all that? LOL
Programming Mode:
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit
after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad .
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature Down Keypad .
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature Down
Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value
should be validated with the
Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is
exited by pressing Door Alarm
Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature Up Keypad or Refrigerator
Down Keypad to
change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer
Temperature Up Keypad to
select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the
Freezer Temperature Down Keypad
until the Program CODE begins flashing indicating it has been saved.
NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control
will not save the new code, but will
beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program CODE of 0000).Once the
Program CODE has been
saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the
new code is incorrect this
process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door
Alarm key for 3 seconds or
will exit if unattended for four minutes. Got all that? LOL
Friday, November 12, 2010
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Friday, October 29, 2010
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Friday, October 8, 2010
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Direct drive washer tub seal replacement.
This video shows how to completely disassemble a direct drive washer:
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Friday, September 17, 2010
Friday, September 3, 2010
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Riding Mower Mystery Solved: Mower quits after 15 minutes then runs again when cooled down
I have had problems with my mowing equipment. After 15 minutes the mower would die then when cool it would run again. I changed the plug, the gas, the fuel filter,cleaned the air filter, and changed out the magneto coil, none of which fixed it. I removed the fuel solenoid from under the carb and nipped the end off the plunger with snips. That fixed it. The function of the solenoid is to kill the gas when the key is shut off. Near as I can tell the solenoid was going out when hot and working while cool. You cannot just defeat the solenoid by unplugging it because that releases the spring loaded pin and the pin shoves the float up and therefore kills the gas. I had to either spend $50 on a solenoid or nip this problem in the bud. Nipped the plunger and all is well. I posted the solution with photos HERE.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Monday, July 12, 2010
Friday, July 9, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Monday, June 14, 2010
Grundfos freshwater systems pump guide
Grundfos Product guide
Grundfos install and operating instructions
The Grundos MQ pump is compact and extremely easy to install. The pressure switch and tank are already built into the MQ. Furthermore, it is self priming and water cooled with a very low noise level. The outlet pipe connection can be angled up to 5º to fit your existing pipe-work.
Grundfos' MQ pump is simple and easy to operate. The settings are clearly indicated on the user friendly control panel with indicator lights for Pump on/off, auto reset, and an alarm indicating dry running or overheating.
Grundfos MQ is built for trouble free operation. It's construction from corrosion resistant materials means it can be used for clean water. The anti-cycling feature prevents the pump from repeatedly starting and stopping in the event of a dripping tap or a minor leak. If there is no water available, the pump will stop to protect itself and restart automatically when water is available again.
Grundfos install and operating instructions
The Grundos MQ pump is compact and extremely easy to install. The pressure switch and tank are already built into the MQ. Furthermore, it is self priming and water cooled with a very low noise level. The outlet pipe connection can be angled up to 5º to fit your existing pipe-work.
Grundfos' MQ pump is simple and easy to operate. The settings are clearly indicated on the user friendly control panel with indicator lights for Pump on/off, auto reset, and an alarm indicating dry running or overheating.
Grundfos MQ is built for trouble free operation. It's construction from corrosion resistant materials means it can be used for clean water. The anti-cycling feature prevents the pump from repeatedly starting and stopping in the event of a dripping tap or a minor leak. If there is no water available, the pump will stop to protect itself and restart automatically when water is available again.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Friday, June 11, 2010
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Ice Machine 101
An ice machine is a great thing to have around. Having tons of fresh ice is always a plus here in the swamp. An ice machine is a dedicated contraption for doing one thing good. That is making ice cubes. How? Manufacturers have cleverly devised a way to make ice. They use a pump to circulate water over an evaporator plate with dimples. As the water pours over the plate ice cubes begin to form. When the thickness is ok the machine diverts the high side discharge gas into the plate and this loosens the ice cubes. They drop down into the bin. The ice maker does a little dance and kicks back in to start another batch. When the bin get full a simple mercury probe opens the power circuit, killing the production until the need again arises. As long as ice is touching that probe she is dead in the water resting and getting ready. When that ice is gone the probe powers up the machine to get at that ice production again. The End.
Not so fast Mr "So what can go wrong"!!! What does go wrong on these machine? Dust builds up in the condenser making the ice production suffer. From time to time Ice machine cleaner must be applied to the machine to clean up the plates. Fan motors go out. Water pumps too. Controls go haywire and the whole shebang can get a big fat freon leak which kills ice production. One thing you may not know is: Ice machines are very fickle. They don't dance when ordered to . Everything gotta be alright fer that heifer to dump ice cubes. You go monkeying with the freon charge in an ice machine and you has troubles. You must ALWAYS add in the correct amount of freon. Very critical. That's all of the smart pills for today folks.
Not so fast Mr "So what can go wrong"!!! What does go wrong on these machine? Dust builds up in the condenser making the ice production suffer. From time to time Ice machine cleaner must be applied to the machine to clean up the plates. Fan motors go out. Water pumps too. Controls go haywire and the whole shebang can get a big fat freon leak which kills ice production. One thing you may not know is: Ice machines are very fickle. They don't dance when ordered to . Everything gotta be alright fer that heifer to dump ice cubes. You go monkeying with the freon charge in an ice machine and you has troubles. You must ALWAYS add in the correct amount of freon. Very critical. That's all of the smart pills for today folks.
Monday, June 7, 2010
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Window unit blows air but compressor does not work
Look for a swollen failed capacitor.
Check wiring on compressor for broken terminal connector.
Check compressor overload for continuity
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Monday, May 31, 2010
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Whirlpool model P window unit service manual
Model P Window unit service manual
This manual features a touchpad control and thermister sensing bulb.
This manual features a touchpad control and thermister sensing bulb.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Friday, May 14, 2010
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Friday, April 30, 2010
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
LG front load washer LE and CE notes
You MUST use "HE" (High Efficiency-Low Suds) type detergent--
AND you must use the correct amount.
Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have INCORRECT dosage instructions.
The correct amount is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash load
HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
This reduces/prevents:
1) Musty Odor
2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle
3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)
4) Insufficient Cleaning Results
5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the
front door gasket
6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)
7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)
Most consumers are doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.
Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap.
This was a very big *faux pas* on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should never be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount.
The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very, very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.
After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur.
After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up.
It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called
"TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.
Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".
Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.
Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.
Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.
Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.
After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.
Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of.
If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled.
This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall.
The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.
************************
Problem:
An occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin:
Solution:
The Red wire going to the Hall sensor is intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. The problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the red wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!
**********************
Problem:
The seal design on the washer traps water causing mildew to grow.
Solution:
If the door gasket has a small hole at the six o'clock position--it is clogged with soap scum. Use compressed air to blow this hole clear.
This allows water to drain back into the tub
If there's no hole--this is an older model LG which did not have this upgrade
Wiping the door gasket with a rag after the LAST cycle of the day helps prevent debris from accumulating. Some consumers add (1) teaspoon of bleach to a spray bottle with water--and spray the older type gaskets after the final laundry load finished--to keep the gasket clean.
*********************
Problem:
The detergent and softner dispenser is gravity feed and builds up with "gunk". It has to be cleaned regularly and while the tray is removable, the inlets are not; so you have to fish out the sludge with a paper towel.
Solution:
This is common on almost all front load washers.
Remove the dispenser tray. Remove the blue liquid detergent cup. Add all to the top rack of the dishwasher---run a cycle. This makes much less a chore of cleaning the dispenser tray assembly.
********************
Problem:
The washer broke down about 6 months ago (roughly 2-2-1/2 years old). The waste pump went bad. No service reps in the area and the place that sold them to us quit selling LG after numerous complaints. I went to a local appliance parts wharehouse that sells just about every part known to the appliance world and when I mentioned LG, the guy at the counter smiled and shook his head. "You have to order it online.
Solution:
You are correct---parts & service is still lacking in some areas, regrettably. LG Parts.
**********************
Problem:
With no error code showing up and the glitchy flickering of the display, I'm eyeballing the main board.
Solution:
Unfortunately--that appears to be the fault (main board) if the lights for the cycles that circle the control panel knob flicker or do not fully "light up".
Main Board Part # 6871EC1121D
**********************
Problem:
Getting a CE error code
Solution:
This is a *rare* error.
It's highly unlikely the motor is at fault.
Detergent overuse triggers an "LE" error rather than "CE".
UNPLUG THE WASHER...
First--inspect all wiring connections at the MAIN BOARD . If good...
Inspect the wiring at the motor--remove the rear service access panel.
Remove the 17mm bolt at the center of the rotor--this can be tight as threadlocker is used (I use an 18 volt Dewalt Impact drill).
Pull off the round shaped rotor. Use some care--this rotor has magnets lining the inside of it--it's not super fragile but can crack if hit sharply.
Inspect the two plug connections to the motor for loose or frayed wiring. Also inspect the wiring which runs from the base (bottom) of the washer-to-the-motor. Once or twice--I have found wiring frayed from the gyrating tub assembly (repair as needed).
If no obstruction such as a nail or similar object can be seen in the drum (small holes in tub)...if the drum turns freely by hand--the most likely fault will be the MAIN BOARD has failed.
This job is very simple:
Remove (3) screws at the top of the control panel.
Pull the control panel towards you & upward.
Remove the screws that attach the MAIN BOARD to the Display Board. Install new MAIN BOARD.
Special thanks to: John
AND you must use the correct amount.
Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have INCORRECT dosage instructions.
The correct amount is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash load
HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
This reduces/prevents:
1) Musty Odor
2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle
3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)
4) Insufficient Cleaning Results
5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the
front door gasket
6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)
7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)
Most consumers are doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.
Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap.
This was a very big *faux pas* on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should never be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount.
The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very, very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.
After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur.
After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up.
It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called
"TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.
Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".
Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.
Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.
Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.
Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.
After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.
Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of.
If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled.
This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall.
The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.
************************
Problem:
An occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin:
Solution:
The Red wire going to the Hall sensor is intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. The problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the red wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!
**********************
Problem:
The seal design on the washer traps water causing mildew to grow.
Solution:
If the door gasket has a small hole at the six o'clock position--it is clogged with soap scum. Use compressed air to blow this hole clear.
This allows water to drain back into the tub
If there's no hole--this is an older model LG which did not have this upgrade
Wiping the door gasket with a rag after the LAST cycle of the day helps prevent debris from accumulating. Some consumers add (1) teaspoon of bleach to a spray bottle with water--and spray the older type gaskets after the final laundry load finished--to keep the gasket clean.
*********************
Problem:
The detergent and softner dispenser is gravity feed and builds up with "gunk". It has to be cleaned regularly and while the tray is removable, the inlets are not; so you have to fish out the sludge with a paper towel.
Solution:
This is common on almost all front load washers.
Remove the dispenser tray. Remove the blue liquid detergent cup. Add all to the top rack of the dishwasher---run a cycle. This makes much less a chore of cleaning the dispenser tray assembly.
********************
Problem:
The washer broke down about 6 months ago (roughly 2-2-1/2 years old). The waste pump went bad. No service reps in the area and the place that sold them to us quit selling LG after numerous complaints. I went to a local appliance parts wharehouse that sells just about every part known to the appliance world and when I mentioned LG, the guy at the counter smiled and shook his head. "You have to order it online.
Solution:
You are correct---parts & service is still lacking in some areas, regrettably. LG Parts.
**********************
Problem:
With no error code showing up and the glitchy flickering of the display, I'm eyeballing the main board.
Solution:
Unfortunately--that appears to be the fault (main board) if the lights for the cycles that circle the control panel knob flicker or do not fully "light up".
Main Board Part # 6871EC1121D
**********************
Problem:
Getting a CE error code
Solution:
This is a *rare* error.
It's highly unlikely the motor is at fault.
Detergent overuse triggers an "LE" error rather than "CE".
UNPLUG THE WASHER...
First--inspect all wiring connections at the MAIN BOARD . If good...
Inspect the wiring at the motor--remove the rear service access panel.
Remove the 17mm bolt at the center of the rotor--this can be tight as threadlocker is used (I use an 18 volt Dewalt Impact drill).
Pull off the round shaped rotor. Use some care--this rotor has magnets lining the inside of it--it's not super fragile but can crack if hit sharply.
Inspect the two plug connections to the motor for loose or frayed wiring. Also inspect the wiring which runs from the base (bottom) of the washer-to-the-motor. Once or twice--I have found wiring frayed from the gyrating tub assembly (repair as needed).
If no obstruction such as a nail or similar object can be seen in the drum (small holes in tub)...if the drum turns freely by hand--the most likely fault will be the MAIN BOARD has failed.
This job is very simple:
Remove (3) screws at the top of the control panel.
Pull the control panel towards you & upward.
Remove the screws that attach the MAIN BOARD to the Display Board. Install new MAIN BOARD.
Special thanks to: John
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Monday, April 26, 2010
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Monday, April 19, 2010
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Whirlpool's Dryer venting manual
Interesting manual about proper venting of dryers, verifying proper venting applications and using manometers:
WHIRLPOOL DRYER VENTING 101
WHIRLPOOL DRYER VENTING 101
Friday, April 16, 2010
Monday, April 12, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Saturday, April 3, 2010
GE Dishwasher Transorb Bulletin
The Triton XL series of dishwashers contain a
transient absorber (“transorb”). It absorbs electrical
transients created when the water valve is turned
off. The transorb is wired in the harness between
the line and neutral sides of the water valve circuit.
It is located approximately 1-1/2 inches from the red
water valve harness connector and is attached to a
yellow harness lead coming from the water valve on
one end and to a white-red neutral wire on the other
end. It is covered with black heat shrink tubing.
The kit number is WD35X10025.
It contains a transorb with 2 attached butt connectors
and installation instructions.
To install the new transorb, cut the defective part
out of the harness and splice in the new one.
transient absorber (“transorb”). It absorbs electrical
transients created when the water valve is turned
off. The transorb is wired in the harness between
the line and neutral sides of the water valve circuit.
It is located approximately 1-1/2 inches from the red
water valve harness connector and is attached to a
yellow harness lead coming from the water valve on
one end and to a white-red neutral wire on the other
end. It is covered with black heat shrink tubing.
The kit number is WD35X10025.
It contains a transorb with 2 attached butt connectors
and installation instructions.
To install the new transorb, cut the defective part
out of the harness and splice in the new one.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Monday, March 22, 2010
Friday, March 19, 2010
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Friday, March 12, 2010
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Monday, March 8, 2010
GWL03 Fisher&Paykel washer service manual
GWL03 service manual
This manual is the repair manual and newer models listed earlier or suppliments to this one.
This manual is the repair manual and newer models listed earlier or suppliments to this one.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Friday, March 5, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Monday, March 1, 2010
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Saturday, February 6, 2010
New style GE top slosher motor/Inverter notes
I had to write this down and it will be handy to know on those washers. GE has come up with a new washer design. The motor has an inverter attached to the top of it. To Reset the Inverter Board: Push the timer knob in so the washer is idle. Unplug the machine for one minute. Plug back in and raise and lower the lid six times within 12 seconds.
After resetting the inverter board, put the machine in a spin cycle and see if it runs. If not, check for a green blinking light on the inverter board. It will flash failure codes according to the picture above. If no light you probably have a blown fuse built into the neutral side of the harness on the white/red wire.
I have photos of the repair:
Here is the suspect
Here is the repair:The part you need is wh49X10041
Friday, February 5, 2010
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Duel element switch operation
The dual element switch on a smooth top range is no different in operation than that of a single element switch other than it operates both the main burner and the middle or bridge burner.
Inside the switch is a cam and a bimetal. The cam presses the contacts together for heat and the bi-metal devides the contacts when the heat builds acording to dial setting. Full on the bi-metal has no effect and the element stays on all the time. Any other setting varries between the distance of the contacts as dictated by the cam mounted on the center post. It ain't rocket science, this system has been around for decades.
Inside the switch is a cam and a bimetal. The cam presses the contacts together for heat and the bi-metal devides the contacts when the heat builds acording to dial setting. Full on the bi-metal has no effect and the element stays on all the time. Any other setting varries between the distance of the contacts as dictated by the cam mounted on the center post. It ain't rocket science, this system has been around for decades.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Friday, January 15, 2010
How to replace agitator dogs
This video shows how to replace the inexpensive agitator dogs in a whirlpool/kenmore direct drive machine. A nice video indeed, money saving and informative.
How to replace agitator dogs
This video shows how to replace the inexpensive agitator dogs in a whirlpool/kenmore direct drive machine. A nice video indeed, money saving and informative.
How to install direct drive coupling
This movie shows how to access the innards of the machine, remove the pump and motor, and replace the drive coupling. Special thanks to Mr mike for making this wonderful video so that all can share. Knowledge is power.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Furnace fixed!!!
After 2 minutes the furnace would act up. The flame sensor was cleaned and the problem persisted. Notice the tube moving in the video to the pressure switch. It was determined that the draft motor was not keeping up pressure on the switch. The draft blower was removed , the blower wheel was cleaned and the furnace was fixed.
Friday, January 8, 2010
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Gas Dryer Conversion
Let's begin with the brass
plug with a little nylon pin
sticking out of it (see the
conversion kit picture above).
That white nylon pin is called
the blocking pin. Unscrew the
plug on the valve, called a
leak limiter, and replace it
with the new one that has the
blocking pin. This changes the
gas regulator pressure setting
for propane.Next, change the
orifice metering plug in the
burner. This controls the
amount of gas that enters the
combustion area.
One point of technique here.
Both the metering orifice and
the blocking pin plug are made
of brass and going into a
steel valve body. Brass is
softer than steel and will
make a gas-tight seal without
having to use gorilla force.
When you screw these brass
fittings in, don’t go nuclear,
just snug ‘em down.
Saturday, January 2, 2010
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